Alta Via n. 3 (proposed by Mario Brovelli in 1966)
From Villabassa to Longarone
Drawing on his own programme of Dolomite routes, published in «Lo Scarpone» on 1 September 1966, Mario Brovelli proposed this superb traverse which, from the fine alpine town of Villabassa-Niederdorf in the Val Pusteria, leads to Longarone in the Piave valley through imposing and celebrated Dolomite cathedrals.
His valuable little guidebook, compiled with the precious help of Bruno Tolot and published in 1976 by Edizioni Alpine Foto Ghedina Cortina, was titled “Alta Via dei Camosci” (Chamois Route) and carried the number 3.
In the foreword the authors explained that Alta Via n. 3 had been planned for some time, with the surveys begun in 1971 and completed in 1974. For some areas (Cristallo, Sorapis, Monte Piana) the old trails could be used, while for others (Vallandro, Rite, Bosconero) the intervention of the Alpine Troops and the usual C.A.I. volunteers was essential, restoring ancient paths or tracing new ones.
Like its celebrated sister routes, this Alta Via too has the distinguishing feature of a long trek that can be broken up into separate daily stages. Refuges, fixed bivouacs and inns – though for those who wish to fully relive the old adventures, a small tent and a sleeping bag will do just as well – offer comfort at the resting points.
The basic route runs on trails that are not especially demanding for a competent hiker, and is in any case always equipped at the more awkward or difficult passages. Some stages have considerable elevation gain on the way up, others also on the way down.
Here and there, where the mountain has remained as it was in the days of the pioneers, and only chamois live undisturbed, greater difficulties arise – mostly of a psychological nature, brought on by the isolation, the considerable elevation changes, the harsh environment, the lack of water, the great silence. And the mists that often roll in swiftly to blanket the surroundings!
Be that as it may, this Alta Via too, like its neighbours, passes through truly extraordinary and unique places, in the wildest heart of the eastern and Belluno Dolomites. For the more expert – and to meet their needs – a number of alternatives to the classic route are offered, especially in the first part, variants consisting in some cases of more technical and rewarding excursions, in others of simple detours.
This Alta Via runs through several famous Dolomite groups that have remained fairly untouched by the mixed, often disorderly crowds of more or less occasional tourists. At the heart of these groups the car cannot reach, and so, with the regrettably necessary exceptions, there is no massive invasion of disturbance.
Here, it takes only a short distance from the valley floor to find peace and rediscover the mountains in their true, primitive and uncorrupted state. Words of Toni Sanmarchi (another “inventor of Alte Vie”) which, thirty years on, remain as relevant as ever. One should, however, always keep to the marked trail, especially in the Bosconero group where, on the Viàz de le Pónte, the route enters briefly into the Val Tovanella Nature Reserve, close to the Belluno Dolomites National Park and its rare wildlife.
Credit for this work goes to the Tourism Department of the Provincial Administration of Belluno, which aims to promote these “home mountains” and, through this effort, to provide those who walk the route with the most up-to-date information possible. For the sake of accuracy, we should note that some authors have altered the original sequence of the route to suit personal taste, the preferences of their readers, or tourism requirements, here and there reshaping the original Italian route and stretching it out to 12–14 days, with excessively short stages.
It is true that such a pace would make for an ideal, relaxing, indulgent holiday, but we have chosen to remain true to the tradition of the “old days”, keeping to around 8 days, even if a few stages may appear somewhat demanding in length. The route can of course be shortened further by combining stages, but that would turn it into a race, which is not the spirit of this guide – intended instead for a calm, relaxing and enjoyable walk.
Compared with the guide by Brovelli and Tolot, published some thirty years ago and now out of print, some changes have also been made here, especially in the early stages, where in the meantime some support points (Carbonìn, Tre Croci) have disappeared, requiring hikers today to make what are in any case pleasant transfers by car (taxi or otherwise).
Other minor updates have also been made to the original route. Over the years, in fact, something has changed, both in the terrain itself and through the appropriate maintenance and equipping work carried out on various stretches of the route by the responsible bodies. None of this has taken anything away from the originality of the work and the idea; if anything, there has been a wish to improve and further refine it, in respectful memory of Mario Brovelli and Bruno Tolot, for whom these mountains were a reason for living.
From the volume ALTA VIA n. 3 – 1st reprint 2007
Dolomiti Turismo srl
Via R. Psaro, 21 – 32100 Belluno, Tel. 0437.940084 – www.infodolomiti.it
Edition fully revised and updated by Italo Zandonella Callegher
When to go and what not to miss
Alta Via n. 3 is walked from late June to late September and crosses some of the most spectacular groups of the Belluno Dolomites: the walls of the Pelmo and the Civetta, among the most imposing in the entire Alpine arc, and the wild Duranno-Cima Preti massif, home to the chamois that give the route its name. It is an itinerary that alternates hiking sections with more demanding passages, including some equipped stretches reserved for those with mountain experience and good technical equipment.
For a longer trek, Alta Via n. 3 can ideally be linked to the north with Alta Via n. 4 of Grohmann, which starts a little further east from San Candido. For a complete picture of all eight Dolomite routes, the Alte Vie of the Dolomites page brings together stages, difficulty levels and links to each route.
Fact box
- Stages: 8
- Length: about 120 km
- Elevation gain: about 6,000 m
- Difficulty: medium to demanding, with exposed ledges and stretches equipped with metal ladders
- Start: Villabassa (1,153 m)
- End: Longarone
- Best season: June–September, depending on refuge opening dates
- Main refuges: Vallandro (2,040 m), Alfonso Vandelli (1,928 m), Venezia “Alba Maria De Luca” (1,946 m), Gianpietro Talamini (1,582 m), Bosconero (1,457 m)
Did you know?
It owes its nickname, “Via dei Camosci” (Chamois Route), to the frequent sightings of these ungulates along the way. It was devised in 1975 by Mario Brovelli and Bruno Tolot, who are honoured with a bronze plaque at Porta de la Serra (2,050 m).
All the Alte Vie of the Dolomites
Alta Via n. 1
Alta Via n. 2
Alta Via n. 3 (you are here)
Alta Via n. 4
Alta Via n. 5
Alta Via n. 6
Alta Via n. 7
Alta Via n. 8
